Helichrysum flower oil

Latin name :

Immortelle is a herbaceous plant of the Asteraceae family and the genus Helichrysum.

Botanical profile :

Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G.Don
Synonyms : Helichrysum italicum var. italicum // Gnaphalium glutinosum var. glutinosum

Geographic origin :

Data not available.

Chemotypes :

Depending on its country of culture, immortelle absolute knows variations in its composition: an immortelle cultivated in Montenegro contains a high rate of Neryl Acetate, γ-Curcumene and smaller quantities of Neryl Propionate and aryl-curcumene. On the other hand, if it is cultivated in Greece, it will contain a high level of Geraniol and Geranyl Acetate. Also, an immortelle grown in Corsica contains a high rate of Neryl Propionate, β-diones ( ''italidiones '') with several sesquiterpenes. Finally, a Spanish origin induces a high level of Alpha-Pinene, to the detriment of other compounds.
In perfumery, 6 species are also used: Helichrysum angustifolium, Helichrysum gymnocephalum (female helichrysum), Helichrysum stoechas (also Mediterranean), Helichrysum bracteiferum (male helichrysum), Helichrysum faradifani and Helichrysum splendidum (splendid immortal). These species are included among the 500 cultivable species.

Extraction process :

Once harvested and dried in June and July, immortelle gives an essential oil - Immortelle EO (yield inferior to 1%) or a concrete and an absolute (Immortelle Absolute) if treated by an organic solvent (yield of 1%, then 70% on the concrete).
The flower heads of the plant are cut with a sickle. The cut cannot be mechanized because this plant grows wild. Plants are hydrodistilled while they are still very fresh (a part of the production is usually put to dry for a few weeks in order to produce the Immortelle Absolute). The distillation process lasts about 3-4 hours.

Major Components :

For a Corsican Oil :
Neryl acetate (≈ 45%)
D-Limonene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
Neryl propionate (≈ 5%)
Nerol (≈ 3%)
Alpha-pinene (≈2%)
Linalool (≈1%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (trace)

For a Balkan oil :
Alpha-pinene (≈25 - 30%)
Neryl acetate (≈ 20%)
Beta-Caryophyllene (≈7 - 10%)
Curcumene (≈7 - 10%)
D-Limonene (≈2 - 5%)
Linalool (≈3%)
Nerol (≈ 1%)
Neryl propionate (<1%)