Jasmine Sambac absolute
Naturelle
Floral > White Flowers > Jasmine > Solar > Animalic
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
Latin name :
Jasminum, whether it be sambac, grandiflorum, or auriculatum, is a white-flowered shrub that can grow from 1 to 3 meters in height and form hedges in fields of cultivation. It belongs to the family Oleaceae and the genus Jasmimum.
Botanical profile :
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton
Synonyms : Jasminum bicorollatum Noronha // Jasminum trifoliatum Telfair
Synonyms : Jasminum bicorollatum Noronha // Jasminum trifoliatum Telfair
Geographic origin :
Data not available.
Chemotypes :
In perfumery, two varieties of jasmine are mainly used:
Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute / Jasmine Grandiflorum Concrete) found for example in Grasse or Egypt.
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton (Jasmine Sambac Absolute / Jasmine Sambac Concrete) mostly cultivated in India.
These two varieties are easily recognizable as grandiflorum has large and rounded flowers while those of sambac are thinner and longer.
Two other species are also grown for perfumery, in smaller proportions:
Jasminum asteroides
Jasminum auriculatum Vahl (Jasmine Auriculatum Absolute / Jasmine Auriculatum Concrete) mainly cultivated in India.
Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute / Jasmine Grandiflorum Concrete) found for example in Grasse or Egypt.
Jasminum sambac (L.) Aiton (Jasmine Sambac Absolute / Jasmine Sambac Concrete) mostly cultivated in India.
These two varieties are easily recognizable as grandiflorum has large and rounded flowers while those of sambac are thinner and longer.
Two other species are also grown for perfumery, in smaller proportions:
Jasminum asteroides
Jasminum auriculatum Vahl (Jasmine Auriculatum Absolute / Jasmine Auriculatum Concrete) mainly cultivated in India.
Extraction process :
The jasmine sambac flower, also known as ''White gold '' in India, is usually harvested from March to September. These flowers are handpicked at sunrise and must be processed within the day because once separated from the shrub, they can only survive for a few hours. The flower buds are then transported to the factory, and a resting phase of approximately 1 to 2 hours allows for the aeration and opening of the buds. At this moment, the jasmine flowers can be processed.
Formerly extracted using the enfleurage technique, the flower is now mainly processed with volatile solvents. This extraction is carried out using hexane. The flowers macerate in the solvent for 10 to 12 hours until exhausted. They are then removed from the extractor, and the solvent is evaporated. This produces a waxy, greenish-orange paste, the Jasmine Sambac Concrete (yielding 0.1 to 0.2% from fresh flowers).
In most cases, the extraction does not stop there and goes on to obtain the Jasmin Sambac Absolute through a succession of steps: alcohol glazing, wax filtration, and alcohol evaporation. The yield of such a product is then less than 0.1% from fresh flowers.
At this stage, molecular distillation may practiced to match regulatory or olfactory requirement. The result is a Jasmin Sambac Absolute DM.
As is the case with many flowers, the harvesting period has a significant influence on the scent. For Jasmin Sambac, it is known that jasmine flowers harvested in spring (March-May) are much greener and more vibrant because of an higher farnesene content , while those harvested in autumn (September-October) are more animalic and dense because of indole content.
Formerly extracted using the enfleurage technique, the flower is now mainly processed with volatile solvents. This extraction is carried out using hexane. The flowers macerate in the solvent for 10 to 12 hours until exhausted. They are then removed from the extractor, and the solvent is evaporated. This produces a waxy, greenish-orange paste, the Jasmine Sambac Concrete (yielding 0.1 to 0.2% from fresh flowers).
In most cases, the extraction does not stop there and goes on to obtain the Jasmin Sambac Absolute through a succession of steps: alcohol glazing, wax filtration, and alcohol evaporation. The yield of such a product is then less than 0.1% from fresh flowers.
At this stage, molecular distillation may practiced to match regulatory or olfactory requirement. The result is a Jasmin Sambac Absolute DM.
As is the case with many flowers, the harvesting period has a significant influence on the scent. For Jasmin Sambac, it is known that jasmine flowers harvested in spring (March-May) are much greener and more vibrant because of an higher farnesene content , while those harvested in autumn (September-October) are more animalic and dense because of indole content.
Major Components :
Farnesene (20-25%)
Benzyl Acetate (15-20%)
Methyl Linoleate (≈13%)
Linalool (≈15%)
Methyl Anthranilate (≈8%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate (≈8%)
Benzyl Alcohol (≈7%)
Germacrene-D (≈4%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate (≈2%)
Phenylacetonitrile (≈2%)
Indole (≈2%)
Benzyl Acetate (15-20%)
Methyl Linoleate (≈13%)
Linalool (≈15%)
Methyl Anthranilate (≈8%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate (≈8%)
Benzyl Alcohol (≈7%)
Germacrene-D (≈4%)
cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate (≈2%)
Phenylacetonitrile (≈2%)
Indole (≈2%)
- Uses in perfumery :
- f
- Other comments :
- While Jasminum grandiflorum L. (Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute) has been used by perfumers since the beginning of perfumery, Jasminum sambac L. only gained popularity in the 1980s. Although the absolute is produced in relatively large volumes compared to other flowers, it represents only a small part of the global market for jasmine (~10%). Indeed, the main part of the flowers are reserved for religious ceremonies, decoration, divine offers, ornaments, or in women's hairstyles. This flower is also the queen of weddings.
In Sanskrit, one of India's official languages, ''Sambac '' means ''hauting perfume. '' Jasmine is also the national flower of Indonesia, despite cultivation there is quite rare.
The cultivation of Jasminum sambac L. is subject to thrips invasions (small insects attacking the leaves), moths, and nematodes (attacking the roots).
The scent of Jasminum sambac L. is greener due to its high level of Farnesene. The scent of Egyptian jasmine is more fruity and sweet. Indian jasmine, on the other hand, is more jammy, gourmand and petal-like. - Volatility :
- Heart
- Appearance :
- Yellow to orange liquid
- Stability :
- Terpens found in this extract are subjected to polymerization under high oxydation.
Esters found in this extract may form their corresponding acid under the effect of heat.
The presence of Methyl Anthranilate can cause coloration of the extract when in contact with aldehydes and ketones, forming Schiff bases. - Price Range :
- €€€€€
- Aromatherapy :
Informations provided below are taken from reference works in aromatherapy. They are given for information purposes only and can not constitute medical information, nor engage the responsibility of ScenTree.
Crédits photo: ScenTree SAS
- EINECS number :
- 292-797-4
- FEMA number :
- 2598
- Allergens :
- Linalool - Benzyl Benzoate - Eugenol
- IFRA :
- This ingredient is restricted by IFRA
- Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION
- Cause of restriction :
- DERMAL SENSITIZATION
- Amendment :
- 49
- Quantitative limit on the use :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5A Cat.5B Cat.5C Cat.5D Cat.6 0,68 % 0,2 % 4,1 % 3,8 % 0,96 % 0,96 % 0,96 % 0,96 % 2,2 % Cat.7A Cat.7B Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10A Cat.10B Cat.11A Cat.11B Cat.12 7,7 % 7,7 % 0,4 % 7,4 % 26 % 26 % 15 % 15 % No Restriction - Restriction type :
- RESTRICTION
- Cause of restriction :
- DERMAL SENSITIZATION
- Amendment :
- 49
- Comments :
- The Standard is set due to the phototoxic effects of Cumin oil. For more detailed information on the application of this Standard, please refer to the note on phototoxic ingredients in chapter 1 of the Guidance for the use of IFRA Standards. If the level of furocoumarins is unknown, the restriction level specified in this IFRA Standard applies. Combination effects of phototoxic ingredients are only taken into consideration for the furocoumarin-containing fragrance ingredients (extracts) listed in the IFRA Standard of Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils. If combinations of furocoumarin-containing phototoxic fragrance ingredients (extracts) are used, the use levels must be reduced accordingly. The sum of the concentrations of all furocoumarin-containing phototoxic fragrance ingredients (extracts), expressed in of their recommended upper concentration level in the consumer product shall not exceed 100.
- Quantitative usage limits :
-
Cat.1 Cat.2 Cat.3 Cat.4 Cat.5 Cat.6 Cat.7 Cat.8 Cat.9 Cat.10 Cat.11 0,68 % 0,2 % 4,1 % 3,8 % 0,96 % 2,2 % 7,7 % 0,4 % 7,4 % 26 % 15 %
To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library
ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.
